A Trilogy of Topcoats for Under Cover Spies



A recent Bonhams sale, featuring "The Personal Collection" of Sir Roger Moore, auctioned what is arguably the most iconic piece of his entire James Bond wardrobe. The dark blue, double-breasted, Chesterfield overcoat made by Cyril Castle for Moore's debut as 007 in "Live and Let Die" (1973) sold for £19,200.


Roger Moore: dressed to thrill (1973)

Roger Moore's first outing as the world's favourite secret agent was much anticipated, and there is no doubt this magnificent piece of tailoring helped to impact his presence on screen during the earliest sequence of the film. It had the same commanding effect that was delivered by Sean Connery's midnight blue dinner suit when he first appeared in "Dr No" (1962) and similarly, the devil is in the detail.


An Englishman in New York (1973)

The soft cashmere cloth was styled with a plush velvet collar, turnback cuffs with single-button fastening, and generous lapels and pocket flaps with swelled-edges. Together with the regimental tie and calfskin gloves, everything worked to perfectly present the quintessential Englishman in New York.


Navy Double Breasted Chesterfield Overcoat by Anthony Sinclair

When Cyril Castle retired, Sir Roger employed the services of Doug Hayward to provide his bespoke finery, both on and off-screen. After Doug passed away in 2008, we had the great honour of tailoring Anthony Sinclair clothes for Roger during the latter years of his life. We didn't get around to making an overcoat for him, but as a tribute to the great man, we have recreated the legendary Chesterfield that looks as good today as it did 50 years ago.


Sean Connery in "Dr No" (1962)

The decision to put Roger Moore into a Chesterfield overcoat may have been a sartorial nod to Sean Connery's debut as 007 a decade earlier, in which he wears a single-breasted version over his dinner suit in an early scene from "Dr No". A further endorsement for the timeless style appeared in 2012, when Daniel Craig adopted the design in "Skyfall".


Daniel Craig in "Skyfall" (2012)

The Anthony Sinclair single-breasted Chesterfield coat has continually been a best-selling garment during the winter seasons. It is usually cut shorter than the double-breasted style and has a less formal appearance, making it easier to wear with more casual clothing.


Navy Single-Breasted Overcoat by Anthony Sinclair

Returning to the early Bond era, a slightly unusual overcoat was tailored for George Lazenby to make his one and only appearance as 007 in "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" (1969). Although Lazenby had worn an Anthony Sinclair suit for his Bond audition, his wardrobe for the film was made by Fulham-based tailor, Dimi Major. 


George Lazenby in "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" (1969)

The coat was double-breasted, but relatively short in length, and had slanted side pockets with flaps. The navy blue cloth, six-button front and Ulster collar gave the impression of a long Peacoat, but the hybrid styling is probably best described as a Car Coat - which would be appropriate given that he had just driven himself to his appointment in his Aston Martin DBS (hence the driving gloves).


Navy Car Coat by Anthony Sinclair

To complete our trilogy of topcoats, we have recreated this interesting piece of outerwear to round off the options for spies who occasionally need to go under cover. 

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