Famously worn and cherished by Steve McQueen, the Hanhart 417 ES has become something of a legend in the world of horology. McQueen wore the watch in many of the iconic shots taken by photographer John Dominis for LIFE Magazine in 1963, and also whilst racing his Triumph Motorcycle at the ISDT the following year. The King of Cool and his 417 even appeared on screen together, in the WWII movie 'The War Lover' (1962)... although it's been considered a blooper, as the watch hadn't actually been released until almost a decade after the war had ended. Who cares? It looked the part - and great credit to the company that was founded by Swiss watchmaker Johann Hanhart in 1882.
Hanhart pioneered the development of the mechanical stopwatch
Hanhart established his watchmaking business in the Swiss town of Diessenhofen, before moving to Schwenningen in southern Germany in 1902. By the mid-1920s, the company had focussed its attention on the development and production of stopwatches. The success of their original designs paved the way for further technical innovations, including the complex double-hand stopwatch and the ultra-fast oscillator with a balance frequency of 360,000 A/h, making Hanhart one of the first manufacturers capable of measuring hundredths of a second.
Hanhart became world leaders in stopwatch production in the 1930s
In 1934, a second factory was established in Gütenbach in the Black Forest, where the company's current headquarters are still located. Four years later, the launch of Hanhart's first chronograph model marked the beginning of a new era for the business. German pilots and naval officers wore Hanhart chronographs throughout WWII, but the factory was dismantled at the end of the war. The plant was eventually rebuilt by the founder's son, Willy Hanhart, and the production of chronographs resumed in 1949.
Willy Hanhart at the Baselworld Watch Show (1952)
Built on the principles of sturdiness, reliability, and readability, Hanhart introduced the 417 as the first pilot's chronograph for the newly established German armed forces in 1954. For nearly a decade, Hanhart supplied the Bundeswehr with this model before ceasing production in 1963 and shifting its focus back to handheld stopwatches. The majority of the original 417 series featured chrome-plated brass cases, with only around 500 models produced in stainless steel, denoted by the "ES" suffix. The "ES" stands for "Edelstahl," meaning stainless steel in English. These rare 417 ES models have since become highly coveted by collectors - particularly given the Steve McQueen association.
Example of the more abundant Hanhart 417 with chrome-plated brass case
In 2020, Hanhart successfully re-released the 417 ES, increasing the case diameter from the original 39mm to a more contemporary 42mm to suit the tastes of a modern audience. Purists, on the other hand, expressed a desire for a design that was as close as possible to the 1950s model. The company took note, and has now produced a watch that matches the dimensions of the original - the 417 ES 1954.
The re-released Hanhart '417 ES 1954' with 39mm stainless steel case
The watch serves as a time machine of sorts, blending the defining style elements of the past with the finest modern materials. Notable features include sharply polished bevels marking the transition from satin lugs to case flanks, and a fluted bezel that rotates in both directions, marked by a red indicator reminiscent of the original design. The bi-compax layout and dial details closely mirror those of the early 417, while the case-back numbers, fonts, and logo have been meticulously recreated.
Powering the chronograph is a Swiss-made, hand-wound Sellita SW510 movement, offering up to 58 hours of power reserve when fully wound. Unlike the original, which had limited water resistance, the new 417 ES 1954 is water-resistant up to 10 bar.
The watch comes with a black calfskin strap featuring a waistband-style base for exceptional comfort, enhanced by a soft Alcantara interior. A stainless steel pin buckle with the historic Hanhart logo ensures a secure fit.
For optimum legibility in any light, the hands and numbers of the Hanhart 417 ES 1954 are coated with Super-LumiNova®. This reissue truly honours its legacy while providing modern-day performance and comfort.
The Hanhart '417 ES 1954' is available from Motoluxe. Retail Price £1,800.00.
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